Vintage Diamond Jewelry Shopping with Hailey Bieber’s Favorite Source
When Teresa Panico goes hunting for stylish vintage jewelry for Material Good stores in New York and Miami, she’s thinking about her high-profile clients, like Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid. “They want statement pieces that nobody else will have,” says the store’s director of fine jewelry. On her wish list: bold gold ’70s era necklaces with a sprinkle of diamonds, romantic antique cushion cut diamonds, and chunky gold and diamond earrings.
Last month, she scoured the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry Show, which she calls “the ultimate treasure hunt,” where she uncovered standout, hard-to-find diamond pieces. Here, she shares pro tips for shopping vintage jewelry and natural diamonds.
Only Natural Diamonds: What are the vintage diamonds on your wish list?
Teresa Panico: I’m always looking for old, interesting shapes, like wider pear shapes and long or wide marquise cuts. There’s a big demand for antique cushion cut diamonds, and they are getting harder to find.
OND: Describe your holy grail vintage jewelry.
TP: Bulgari chunky gold necklaces with diamonds and colored stones from the ‘70s and ‘80s. I’m also always keeping my eye out for incredible 80s-era chunky gold and diamond Cartier Panthère pieces. I also sourced a vintage diamond Chopard charm necklace two years ago and have been on the hunt for another since!
OND: What are some of the hot vintage looks right now?
TP: If someone is going to invest the money in a great vintage piece, they want it to make a statement. Bold gold looks are very of the moment. Bulgari has that look and it is instantly recognizable; you can spot the curb link or Serpenti necklaces with diamonds and colored stones a mile away.
OND: Can you share some of Hailey Bieber’s favorites?
TP: When Hailey Bieber comes into the store, she mostly wants vintage jewelry. She purchased an unsigned vintage diamond necklace with pear-shaped diamonds all around facing down and gold outlining the stones. It’s so edgy and chic. She’s also purchased a few vintage yellow gold and diamond Patek Philippe watches. Tiny and elegant!
OND: What stopped Bella Hadid in her tracks?
TP: Bella happened to come to the store when we just acquired a Bulgari cabochon ruby and diamond necklace. She walked right to the case, and said, ‘Oh my god, what is this? I’ll take it’ We’re never going to find the same exact one again.
OND: Why do younger, cool girls like Bieber and Hadid want vintage now?
TP: It’s one-of-a-kind and no one else is going to have it. When you’re a celebrity, everyone wants to copy you, and with vintage, that’s almost impossible.
OND: How do you reimagine vintage diamonds?
TP: We use unique vintage shapes in contemporary designs. Last year, we bought an insane, long vintage marquise diamond (4.5 carats) and set it in an east-west pendant that sold immediately. I’ve been on the hunt to replace that stone.
We let our antique cuts speak for themselves, with clean solitaire settings. We have completed quite a few two-tone yellow and platinum mountings with compass-set prongs, and for vintage diamond cuts that exceed seven carats, we’ve mounted with delicate double-claw prongs.
OND: What’s good value?
TP: We sell a lot of unsigned pieces, which is a great way to get younger collectors into vintage. Our clients gravitate towards Italian-made gold necklaces with diamonds, and chunky gold and diamond earrings.
OND: Can you share some Styling tips for vintage jewelry?
TP: It’s nice to have a mix of old and new jewelry and wear them together. For instance, I have a vintage Italian-made chain with a really cool clasp and I clip new charms on it. I mix old chains with new ones. It’s all about layering pieces.
OND: How does vintage jewelry inspire Material Good’s own jewelry collection?
TP: Some of our Made by Material Good pieces have a vintage vibe, such as diamonds that are set in thicker and chunkier bezel settings. We just made a pair of gorgeous citrine drop earrings that were kind of like Bulgari-esq.
